Applying the Lin-Speed Finish

(Take your time and read the following closely)

Use only the thinnest applications possible – A little Lin-Speed goes a long way. Lin-Speed can be expected to cover about 2 to 3 times that of varnish or polyurethane and our 2 oz jar is typically enough to finish up to six long-gun stocks. Please keep in mind, applying too much Lin-Speed will not improve the finish and will impede the dry time.

• Warm, dry, moving air are the best conditions under which Lin-Speed will harden.

• Filling larger wood pores — Wood grains differ form species to species. Some wood grain is open, requiring filling to make a nice smooth surface, and some wood is tighter grained, requiring little or no filling. Lin-Speed is formulated to fill pores, but some pieces may need filling using Lin-Speed and the dust from the piece. Look at the piece closely. If you encounter wood grain that is noticeably open (large pores), use the sanding dust combined with the Lin-Speed to fill the pores of the grain during the first application. (No material used to fill the pores will match the wood better than itself.)

• The Dual Application Process (This process is the key to a beautiful Lin-Speed finish) — Once you have finished preparing the wood (and have applied Lin-Speed to the inletted surfaces and checkering on gunstocks) apply a very thin application over the piece. This is done by dipping your the very tip of your finger into the Lin-Speed and smearing it over the surface of the piece and smoothing with the heel of your palm. Again, use very sparingly. Now let the piece set up for 3 to 6 hours. After the allowed time do a second application right over the first. The piece may feel a bit tacky but that is normal. Simply go ahead and make the second very thin application right over the first. Allow the second application to dry for 3 to 6 hours. This dual application process helps fill the pores more quickly and efficiently. After the second application has dried for 3 to 6 hours use #000 Steel Wool lubricated with Boiled Linseed Oil (or Scotch Brite Ultra fine synthetic steel wool dry) and rub any oil residue off the surface of the wood. Then clean the piece with a lint free cloth or paper towel dampened with naphtha or Ronsonol lighter fluid. Again the piece may feel a bit tacky at this point but that is normal and the grinding will take away the surface oil. You can get up to 4 applications done in a day hence Lin-“SPEED”. There is no need to let the piece fully harden between these applications as the removal of the surface oil becomes more difficult the more time the oil has to set up.

Be sure to dispose of oily towels and work materials in soapy water in a metal can.

• After you have done the initial two applications and have removed the oil residue from the wood surface with steel wool and wiped it clean, look down the length of the piece. You will observe that the surface wood is dull looking and the pores appear as little shiny spots. This is because the oil has not fully filled the pores to the level of the surrounding wood. That is why you will repeat the above until you look down the wood and see a uniform dull over the entire piece. Once that uniform appearance is attained the pores are now filled to the level of the surrounding wood and you are ready for a final application. If you decide that you prefer a more matte or satin appearance and at this point, you are finished except to let the finish season. You will have a glossier appearance if you decide to do a final application or two. Again, do not build oil on the surface, just do a very thin application and you will achieve success.

• The Final Finish — The final finish should not be built up and away from the surface of the wood. It should be as thin as possible upon it resembling the patina of early furniture. The requirement for success in keeping the final finish a minimum thickness is of having the preceding sealing and filling complete and fully reduced to the wood. The piece at this point should be clean and free of any dust or debris. The final coat of Lin-Speed can be used full strength or thinned with naphtha or Mineral Spirits – two parts thinner to three parts Lin-Speed.

• The Seasoned Finish — It is typical that the new finish have, right at first, a very slightly tacky feel even though it is technically dry. After curing a week to ten days, a seasoned hardness will become apparent. Remember, you will have the rest of your life to enjoy the piece so please be patient for a few days. If the piece needs to be shipped before the piece has seasoned, wrap it in wax paper then in regular paper but the best advice is to just be patient. It is not advised to take an unseasoned piece into the field as it will easily scratch. Even so, a Lin-Speed finish is so easy to touch up it will be of little matter overall.

• Touch Up —  Unlike almost any other finish, the oil finish is receptive to selective repair or complete refreshment after hard use or long aging. Just a drop or two of Lin-Speed Oil, placed, spread and smoothed out will return the finish to its original beauty. Be sure the wood is free of oils or grease before applying any Lin-Speed. Try wiping the piece down with naphtha before the touch up to be sure the piece is grease free.

DO NOT HEAT LIN-SPEED
Always work in a well ventilated area.
Rags, Paper Towels, Steel Wool Pads soaked in Linseed Oil can self ignite. Put all these work materials and anything else that you have used in the process that may ignite (Lin-Speed, Linseed Oil, Mineral Spirits, Naphtha and lighter fluid) in a metal can. Douse the contents of the can with soap & water and dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way.

Storage

Keep cap closed tightly and STORE JAR CAP SIDE DOWN: This prevents air from leaking into the jar causing Lin-Speed to thicken. Use marbles to take up space in the can as the contents go down to keep air from getting into the can. Discard if contents begin to noticeably thicken: Lin-Speed cannot be restored with thinner and will not cure properly once it begins to thicken in the jar. Order a fresh container.