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Using the Real Original

Thank you for choosing 

"GB" Lin-Speed Finish Oil

for your fine woodworking projects. 

We sincerely appreciate your business. Please e-mail any questions to:

info@lin-speed.com

We are alway happy to help!

 

"GB" Lin-Speed Oil is great not only to finish gunstocks but many fine guitar makers have dicovered how well Lin-Speed Oil works on their musical creations.  And apply "GB" Lin-Speed Oil to knife handles (it can withstand many trips through the dishwasher before re-coating), tool handles, bar tops, table tops, and furniture.  Try appling Lin-Speed Oil to scuffs in your hardwood floors and watch the scuffs disappear for good. 


IF WORK IS TO BE DONE TO A FIREARM BE CERTAIN THAT IT IS UNLOADED BEFORE WORKING ON IT.

SAFETY FIRST!

THANK YOU

 

Preparation is the key to a beautiful finish!

Take your time preparing the wood.  We suggest sanding the piece to 600 grit or more.  Our Micro-Mesh Pro Finish Kit has the cushioned abrasives that will provide the exact wood smoothness you desire.  The time you spend preparing the piece, prior to applying the finish, will surely pay off.  The wood is the finish with Lin-Speed.  Please keep in mind that you are really "oiling" the wood and are not building a finish on the surface.  With each dual application and subsequent removal of the surface oil you should begin to see the wood glow as the pores fill with "GB"Lin-Speed Oil.  The process is simple and relatively quick.   

 

Please read through all the instructions before starting.

Use only the thinnest applications possible – A little Lin-Speed goes a long way. Lin-Speed can be expected to cover about 2 to 3 times that of varish or polyurethane and our 2oz jar is typically enough to finish up to 6 long stocks.

 Suggested Materials List:

Real "GB" Lin-Speed Finish & Care Oil

(Try our new Micro-Mesh Pro Finish Kit for final wood finishing before Lin-Speed is applied. Make the wood as smooth as glass with Micro-Mesh)

  • Separate containers to work from
  • Scotchbrite Ultra Fine synthetic steel wool or triple zero steel wool (000 fine steel wool) We prefer the use of dry synthetic steel wool and cleaning with a lint free cloth dampened with naphtha or Ronsonol lighter fluid.  
  • If using steel wool, Plain or boiled linseed oil (to lubricate the steel wool) This is not necessary with synthetic steel wool.
  • Naphtha (for thinning Lin-Speed)
  • Paper towels
  • Clean lint free rags
  • 600 Grit sand paper (Try our Micro-Mesh Kit for glass smooth wood)
  • Metal refuse can (empty coffee can with cover) 
  • Paint/varnish stripper (if refinishing)
  • Brass brush (used to remove old finish from checkered areas)
  • 1” - 2” cheap paint brush (to apply stripper)
  • Razor blade (can be used to scrape away old finish)
  • Old tooth brush (used to apply Lin-Speed to checkered areas)
  • Save some of the sawdust from sanding (can be used with Lin-Speed to fill the wood pores – no other material will match the stock as well as its own dust)

 

Keep cap closed tightly and STORE JAR CAP SIDE DOWN:

This prevents air from leaking into the jar causing Lin-Speed to thicken.  With our new larger containers keep lid channel clear of Lin-Speed and debris and tap lid on tighly. Use marbles to take up space in the can as the contents go down to keep air from getting into the can. 

 

Discard if contents begin to noticeably thicken:

Lin-Speed cannot be restored with thinner and will not cure properly once it begins to thicken in the jar.  Order a fresh container at www.lin-speed.com or call 508-566-6869. 

 

Do not use a sealer

This will prevent the penetration of Lin-Speed into the wood which is key to Lin-Speed protection and finish.

 

DO NOT HEAT LIN-SPEED

Apply only to wood of low moisture content.   

Use common sense when going through the process and have fun 

Always work in a well ventilated area

Put all work materials, rags, paper towels, steel wool and anything else that you have used in the process that may ignite (Lin-Speed, linseed oil, mineral spirits, naphtha and lighter fluid) in a metal can, out doors and away from dwellings. Douse contents of can with soap & water and dispose of in an environmentally friendly way.  (An empty metal coffee container could be used). 

Rags, Paper Towels, Steel Wool Pads soaked in linseed oil can self ignite. Soak all rags, paper towels, steel wool pads etc. in soap & water and disposed of properly as described.

Preparation:

When refinishing:

 

·         Non-Wood Parts. Remove the non-wood parts from the piece or isolate with tape. Strip off the old finish with your favorite paint/varnish and follow the manufacturer's directions.

 

·         Checkered Areas.  If checkered areas need refinishing apply the paint/varnish remover and use a brass brush of moderate stiffness to remove the old finish.   Go easy so as not to knock off the points of the checkering.

 

·          Dents.  If dents in the wood are encountered these can generally be removed by placing a damp cloth over the dent then putting a hot iron on the damp cloth taking care to not burn the wood or yourself.  The steam created should raise the wood and remove the dent.  You have to remove the existing finish to accomplish this task. 

 

·          Scratches. Scratches can be sanded but take care to remove only a little wood at a time so you don’t make a noticeable hollow in the wood. Be particularly careful if sanding a portion of the piece where a non-wood part will be reattached for this may ruin the fit.  If there is a deep gouge or other extreme missing material it may be necessary to use wood filler.  The novice may want to visit a local gun smith for this repair.

 

·          Grain Raising. You will need to do no “grain-raising” or “de-whiskering” when using Lin-Speed.  The first application of Lin-Speed oil will raise the fibers of the wood and freeze them when the Lin-Speed hardens.  Then, when you use the steel wool to take down the finish between applications, the raised fibers will be reduced.

 

·          Stain. Apply any color stain to the piece desired and let it dry according to manufacturer. The stain can contain no sealer or polyurethane.

 

·          Wood Prep. Take your time with each sand paper grit. The more uniform the scratch pattern the better your finish will look. Remember that Lin-Speed is not a varnish or polyurethane and is not meant to hide the wood with a surface coat but is truly and in the wood finish. 

·          Lin-Speed Penetration. There should be no other finish on the piece that may prevent the penetration of Lin-Speed into the wood.  Lin-Speed will generally work fine when finishing over other oil type finishes.  Remember, Lin-Speed is meant to penetrate and fill the pores of the wood.  It works within the wood with very little on the surface. 

  

Applying the Lin-Speed Finish: 

 

·          Take your time and read the following closely.  

·          Please keep in mind, applying too much Lin-Speed will not help to build the finish and will impede the dry time. 

 

·          Warm, dry, moving air are the best conditions under which Lin-Speed will harden.

 

  • Upon completion of an application of Lin-Speed, dispose of soiled materials as described above in a covered metal container having soaked all in warm soapy water. Wash your hands thoroughly with warm water and soap.

 

·          Utilize a separate container.  We suggest pouring a little Lin-Speed at a time as needed into a second container and resealing your original jar.  Your Lin-Speed will be less likely to thicken in the original jar and this will prevent debris from getting into the fresh jar.  Do not return the used oil back into the fresh jar. The same is true of our new larger sized containers. Marble can be used to take up the void in the can as contents are used to prevent air in the can.

 

·          Inlet and fitted surfaces. Apply a modest amount of Lin-Speed to the inlets and fitted surfaces first.  A small hobby paint brush may be used.  Even though these areas will be covered upon reassembly of the piece, a barrier of Lin-Speed in these areas will protect the wood from moisture and lubricant oils.  Any excess Lin-Speed applied in these areas should be dabbed or wiped away with a clean rag or paper towel or used on the exposed surfaces.  Only one, thin application of Lin-Speed is recommended in these areas.  Too much Lin-Speed may interfere with the fit of the pieces to be reattached so it is best to keep it to one coat here.

  

·          Checkered areas.   If your piece has checkered areas, apply Lin-Speed to these areas right after completeing the inletted areas.  Dip an old tooth brush or similar stiff bristled brush into the Lin-Speed (again, put a little Lin-Speed in a separate container) and push the product throughout the checkering.  Using a semi stiff bristled brush will help prevent the checkering from getting clogged with finish.  Again, a little Lin-Speed goes a long way.  The excess Lin-Speed from the checkered area can simply be rubbed into the smooth areas around the checkering. Only do one or two very very thin applications in the checkering so as not to clog the checkering with Lin-Speed.

 

·          Filling larger wood pores. Wood grains differ form species to species.  Some wood grain is open, requiring filling to make a nice smooth surface, and some wood is tighter grained, requiring little or no filling.  Lin-Speed is formulated to fill pores, but some pieces may need filling using Lin-Speed and the dust from the piece.  Look at the piece closely.  If you encounter wood grain that is noticeably open (large pores), use the sanding dust combined with the Lin-Speed to fill the pores of the grain during the first application.  We have also learned that some folks prefer to apply a coat of Lin-Speed then sand the piece with 600 grit sand paper while the product is still wet upon the piece.  This creates a paste of saw dust and Lin-Speed.  Go over the whole piece (except for checkered areas) using this method, and then let the paste dry on the piece over night.  This will not be a thick paste.  The piece will appear cloudy in appearance over all.  After it has dried over night, (it still may feel a bit tacky but that is ok) take the paste down with triple zero steel wool lubricated with regular boiled linseed oil all the way down to the wood, and then wipe the piece off with paper towel.  This method, if used, should be done on the first application.  No material used to fill the pores will match the wood better than itself.

 

·         The Dual Application Process.  This process is the key to a beautiful Lin-Speed finish.

 

      Once you have finished preparing the wood and have applied Lin-Speed to the inletted surfaces and checkering apply a very thin application over the piece.  This is done by dipping your the very tip of your finger into the Lin-Speed and smearing it over the surface of the piece and smoothin with the heel of your palm.  Again, use very sparingly. Now let the piece set up for 3 to 6 hours.  After the allowed time do a second application right over the first.  The piece may feel a bit tacky but that is normal. Simply go ahead and make the second very thin application right over the first.  Allow the second application to dry for 3 to 6 hours. This dual application process helps fill the pores more quickly and efficiently.  After the second application has dried for 3 to 6 hours use Scotchbrite Ultra fine synthetic steel wool dry and rub any oil residue off the surface of the wood then clean the piece with a lint free cloth or paper towel dampened with naphtha or Ronsonol lighter fluid.   Again the piece may feel a bit tacky at this point but that is normal and the grinding will take away the surface oil. You can get up to 4 application done in a day hence Lin-SPEED.  There is no need to let the piece fully harden between these applications as the removeal of the surface oil becomes more difficult the more time the oil has to set up. (Be sure to dispose of oily towels and work materials as described above in soapy water in a meatal can).  

 

·          After you have done the initial two applications and have remove the oil residue from the wood surface with the synthetic steel wool pad and have wipped it clean look down the length of the piece. You will observe that the surface wood is dull looking and the pores appear as little shiny spots. This is because the oil has not fully filled the pores to the level of the surrounding wood.  That is why you will repeat the above until you look down the wood and see a uniform dull over the piece.  Once that uniform appearance is attained the pores are now filled to the level of the surrounding wood and you are ready for a final application.  You may decide that you prefer a more matte or satin appearance and at this point you are finished excetpt to let the oil season.  You will have a glossier appearance if you decide to do a final application or two.  Again, do not build oil on the surface, just do a very thin application and you will achieve success.     

 

·          The Final Finish.  The final finish should not be built up and away from the surface of the wood.  It should be as thin as possible upon it resembling the patina of early furniture.   The requirement for success in keeping the final finish a minimum thickness is of having the preceding sealing and filling complete and fully reduced to the wood.  The piece at this point should be clean and free of any dust or debris.  The final coat of Lin-Speed can be used full strength or thinned with naphtha – two parts thinner to three parts Lin-Speed.  

 

·          The Seasoned Finish.  It is typical that the new finish have, right at first, a very slightly tacky feel even though it is technically dry.  After a week to ten days, a seasoned hardness will become apparent.  Remember, you will have the rest of your life to enjoy the piece so please be patient for a few days.  If the piece needs to be shipped before the piece has seasoned, wrap the piece in wax paper then in regular paper but the best advice to your client is to just be patient.  It is not advised to take an unseasoned piece into the field as it will easily scratch.  Even so, a Lin-Speed finish is so easy to touch up it will be of little matter overall.

 

·          Touch Up.  Unlike almost any other finish, the oil finish is receptive to selective repair or complete refreshment after hard use or long aging.  Just a drop or two of Lin-Speed oil, placed, spread and smoothed out will return the finish to its original beauty.  Be sure the wood is free of oils or grease before applying any Lin-Speed.  Try wiping the piece down with naphtha before the touch up to be sure the piece is grease free.

 

Please do not hesitate to call (508-566-6869) or e-mail (info@lin-speed.com) if you have any questions about using Lin-Speed, the finest oil finish available.  Thanks so much for your business.  We sincerely appreciate our customers.

 

 

Best to you always,

Bill & Ingrid

The Lin-Speed Team

Copyright © 2008 Lin-Speed, Inc. All rights reserved.